fashion door

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Prada

If there can be a single fashion house that can be credited with dictating trends every season, Prada is it – and next season Mrs Miuccia has firstly cast black as secure on the fashion agenda for next winter, and secondly decreed that if you don’t want to wear black you can smother yourself with mosaic prints in mismatching colours from head to toe. And both options carry with them plenty of jewels to match.

Milano Fashion Week - Gucci

“THIS is modern day romanticism,” Gucci creative director Frida Giannini told us, by way of explanation for her autumn/winter 2012-13 collection. Romantic, yes – and dark without being sinister, despite the fact that there was barely enough light in there to even see the girls. We’d walked into a plush, dark plum carpeted catwalk which reminded us all of Christopher Kane’s show and all the fun of the London fashion fair last week – but this didn’t look like it was going to be light-hearted.

Friday, February 24, 2012

London Fashion Week- Burberry

Burberry Steals the Show! Country-living was key - tweed caps, cord skirts with flippy hems, belts, bags and even umbrella handles featured gold fox faces - and while some people expressed surprise at Burberry's summery collection for last (well, this...), autumn/winter, this one was right on the money when it came to the weather - olive, burgundy, plum, mustard, brown in every shade - it was sumptuous in colour and texture.

Jackets and coats in panels of tweed, cord and the signature Burberry mac fabric were fitted above their gathered, elasticated belts - with sweet bows at the front - and ballooned into bulging pockets or undulating peplums beneath and there was none of the beaded, homespun feel of last season. This was grown-up and inclusive - roomy woollen skirts came beneath blousy, full-sleeved white cotton shirts that will look good on more than just sample size models - bravo Burberry.

Nicole Farhi

Crepe wool dresses has swathes of sequins travelling around one hip to the waist; cashmere flannel skirts had them cascading down from the hips or building up a peplum of glitter over the hips and – inspired by the Secession Movement in Vienna, French Art Nouveau and “Gustav Klimt’s opulent canvasses” - Farhi used the Gothic splendour of The Royal Courts of Justice to persuade us, quite successfully, that after 30 years in the business she can experiment with fabrics and come up with new ideas as well as any new designer.

Mulberry LFW-Autumn/Winter 2012

We’re a British company so I wanted to make the outerwear really strong. I always think a winter show should actually be for winter,” said Mulberry creative director Emma Hill after the show – where she was joined by Vogue cover girl Del Rey who was sporting her new specially designed Del Rey bag (you know you’ve made it when a bag is named after you).

Temperley London

Long cream lace robes worn over nude sheaths had bright fuchsia floral appliqué growing up them, while A-line skirts of red quilted silk or gold sequins were belted into white blouses edged in lace to allude to Alice’s chosen reference to Slavic folklore.

Sumptuous woollen capes with matching pencil skirts meant the Temperley woman doesn’t just dress for black tie next season, while velvet trousers and their fitted matching jackets, perfectly tailored frock coats and one brown shorn pony skin coat teamed with a leather skirt revealed Temperley’s ability to create variety in the wardrobes of the super rich. Full-sleeved day dresses fell to above the knee in laser-cut purple taffeta to match the lace ankle boots beneath, while the evening wear truly wowed her audience, with jewelled straps crossing over the back of a navy column and another black silk dress lined in cream draped around the body and barely held on by a narrow lace across the shoulder blades. Increasingly bejewelled and lustrous, it became the crown jewels of a collection.

LFW- Emilia Wickstead

Emilia Wickstead- She took Eighteenth Century references like ballooning layered skirts and square necklines and gave them modern day flair via straight pencil skirts barely hidden beneath and block pleated baby dolls skirts attached, respectively.