Miuccia Prada brought Paris to a close this afternoon with a beautiful show that confirmed her status as the woman who know just what woman want- never mind Marc Jacobs and his Louis Vuitton fetishisms this morning. But if talking of robust tweeted dresses and coats with exaggerated shoulders were nipped in to the waist, Miu Miu and its featured prim white Peter Pan collars, giant matching purses as clutch bags worn alongside them. Season's biggest trends: muddy palette, check. Blown-up proportions, check.
Miu Miu took the idea of a signature print and raised it by scattering embellished lily of the valley, swallows, dandelions and daisies over beautifully sophisticated dresses whose demure silhouette brought to mind Forties nostalgia-
Bows were a motif but somehow not girly- they came as twisted mink cummerbunds on tweed or silk dresses, as two sides of a lapel on oversized jackets dresses and on suede ankle boots-
It was languid and alluring, full of fresh new ideas for the new generation Hollywood chicks in the front row- the finale line up of dresses with full sleeves and flashes of flesh at the back surely inspiring them to become full -on silver screen legends.
Alexander McQueen - "The wondrously talented Sarah Burton proved she was certainly no one-trick pony with an elegant, extravagant offering of a series of couture-esque pieces; the most commercial of these the beautifully tailored waist-length jackets with multiple seam detail." 
Chloe - "Hannah MacGibbon’s collection at Chloe capitalised massively upon fashion’s continuing love affair with the Seventies, which isn’t going anywhere this season. Show standouts were these louche, silk wide-leg pants in pared-down snakeskin print." 
Theyskens Theory - "Knitwear was prevalent within many shows this season; Olivier Theyskens has definitely put his stamp on Theory, and his gothic influences which have been so prevalent throughout his career - particularly at Rochas - were here to see - albeit in a much more accessible way. Knitwear was key, with cable knit sweaters and dresses that will be very easy to wear; this is affordable luxury at its best." 
Haider Ackermann - "Haider Ackermann’s autumn/winter 2011-12 collection received instant industry acclaim, and deservedly so – it was fabulous. One of my favourite elements of the show was the varying skin-tight, maxi skirts that swathed the model’s legs. This particular boucle-wool ankle-crusher beautifully demonstrates this season’s ladylike/elegant trend, along with Ackermann’s own subversive twist with its thigh-high split." 
